The ABCs of Everest Base Camp

Trekking pointers to note while on the road

Han Hamid
5 min readOct 8, 2018
View from the first stupa, going to Tengboche — All photos by me.

It has been two weeks since I left Kathmandu. My mind has stopped reeling from the excitement as I slowly went back to reality. I have left my heart somewhere in the mountains, and I plan to return and retrieve it someday.

This post aims to collate a few pointers which may benefit you, dear readers, on what to expect during your trekking adventure in the Himalayas during the month of September. This is my second trip to Nepal (the first was in Annapurna Sanctuary) which I thoroughly enjoyed.

Always hope for the best and prepare for the worst

We started off with high spirits, only to be denied when the weather turned foul and decides to be a wet blanket. Yep, our domestic flight got cancelled, along with the many crestfallen trekkers checking out from the terminal to their respective hotels.

And so we lost a day, just like that.

At least we are much better off when we heard a Malaysian man who had been around the airport for 5 days.

Stranded, along with the many others at Kathmandu Domestic Airport.

Chance of clear skies over the next few days are pretty slim, and we decided to go via the overland route; a Jeep ride to the classic Everest Base Camp which was way further from our original start point.

Sometimes, we just have to make do with what we have.

To go far, we inched our way slowly

We started off at Phaplu, after surviving a horrific drive from Kathmandu. I swear that it was one of the most dangerous jeep rides that I have ever had in my sedentary life.

We arrived at Phaplu, and the fog came right after the rain.

The following 3 days were trekking upwards, which was literally hell for us. Acclimatising to the altitude, crossing waterbodies, bridges that creak with every step and the mossy paths that threatened to slip us down to oblivion are some of the dangers we had to overcome to get to Lukla.

We encountered a 2-man team from Hong Kong. Their pace is quite brisk and naturally, we thought that they must be well trained for this sort of thing. Surprisingly, they fall out on the second day. My sentiments? Perhaps they succumbed to Altitude Mountain Sickness.

First was the rain, now the altitude. It is as if the mountain decides whoever he sees worthy, not by fitness nor by mental strength, but by an unknown reason we all have no answer to.

Porters are your best friend

I consider our porter and our guide as part of a family, giving them my absolute trust and blind faith to lead us onto this trip.

*p.s. read more about Mr Sherpa’s life (our porter) below.

There was a time when our load became too much of a burden to handle. Mr Sherpa took charge of our backpacks and carried it to the next checkpoint. I am in awe at his strength and perseverance.

“You should be carrying your own packs, not burden others.” That is what my inner pride is telling me. Yet, I know that I have to drown my inner monologues in order to move on…

Some people may want to carry their own load. However, I advise on hiring a porter as a way to improve the Nepalese economy, and also to give these villagers a way to boost their income. After all, even summit expeditions have a large support group of porters and no one does it alone nor the famous Sir Edmund Hillary.

I advise on hiring a porter as a way to improve the Nepalese economy, and also to give these villagers a way to boost their income.

Drink fresh mountain water

Bottled mineral water is widely available at every inn or lodge, at a reasonable price. However, prices of goods go up by 30% more past Lukla or Namche Bazaar.

I would discourage buying bottled drinks as water is basically available everywhere. Furthermore, there is a problem with plastic waste which is non-biodegradable. Plastics and other toxic wastes are often buried as recycling programmes are basically non-existent.

Ask for drinking water instead whenever you stop for lunch or dinner. Or even better, top up your bottles at every waterfalls or water taps along the way.

Eat from what the locals have to offer

Get rid of your camping stoves to shed some weight.

You do not need to carry a lot of rations, save for snacks as food is easily available and affordable. Ask for the easiest food to cook during lunch, especially when you want to save time before your next resting place.

Preparing lunch can be quite long for these innkeepers, especially when it is a popular rest stop. There was one time where we spent about 2 hours for lunch. Gulps.

~Pro tip: Go to the next teahouse if you see a lot of backpacks on the stone pedestals.

A trekker passes our row of backpacks, possibly heading over to the next lodge for lunch.

Get plenty of rest

And finally, a good amount of body maintenance. Most of the local inns close at around 9 pm. You can get plenty of rest during the acclimatisation day (usually at Lukla or Namche Bazaar).

Nothing feels better than dinner and a hot shower after a full day’s worth of hike.

Sometimes, I wonder what I signed up for.

Rest is best!

Thank you for reading! Tap the clap if you like this post.

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Han Hamid
Han Hamid

Written by Han Hamid

Sharing my observations for mindful living. I love instant ramen and kopi-o.

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